Special pure handwoven silk jamdani stole with tassels from Bengal.
Dry clean only.
Slight difference in colour from the visible product image is possible. Read more.
Karomi Crafts ‘n’ Textiles – as a concept in hand-crafted and hand-made textiles - was set up in early 2007. Working with rural and urban artisans, in West Bengal, India, our pledge is to produce ‘quality handicrafts’ in hand-loom weaving, hand-block printing, hand embroideries and combined techniques. While design and colour sensibility is our strength, an ability to create textile textures through a combination of different types of yarns and weaves, distinguishes us from others in the field. We only work with natural fibres like silks, cottons and linens. Our yarns are always hand dyed. We also work with natural dyes - an eco friendly process of production. One of the weaving techniques widely used by us is the well known Jamdani (extra weft) weaving, a style unique to Bengal…literally like “hand embroidery” on the loom. The method of weaving resembles tapestry work in which small shuttles of coloured, gold or silver threads, are passed through the warp. Jamdani, because of its intricate patterns, has always been a highly expensive product. According to historical accounts, Jamdani fabric was essentially meant only for the affluent nobility. In the year 2012, Karomi was awarded the UNESCO Award of Excellence for handicrafts, for one of its silk Jamdani stole, in recognition of innovation and quality in this field. Karomi received the award once again in 2014 for its jamdani stole.
How the Loom weaves a story
Making Jamdani is very labor intensive. It involves a community of artisans, often a family of weavers or dyers, coordinating with each other, building upon years of tradition. Once the desired yarn has been procured from the market, the following processes are involved in creating a finished product. Step 1. Dyeing - Yarns (in hanks) are hand dyed by the local dyers. Finer the yarn, the more difficult its dyeing. The yarn needs careful handling as consistent water treatment reduces its strength. Step 2. Reeling - Reeling of dyed yarns into spools is done by hand on the “charkhas” or spinning wheels. For handspun cotton, the dyed thread is strengthened and softened by soaking overnight in a solution of rice water starch, allowing the women to wind it more easily onto bobbins. It is tedious work done early in the morning, usually between 4 and 9, before the increasing heat dries the thread, making it more difficult to handle. Step 3. Warping/Drumming - The wound bobbins are sent to another worker who prepares the warp on a beam. Warp yarns are laid out on a large wooden wheel-like structure called a “drum...or beam” as per the specified warping pattern. Step 4. Healding - After drumming, threading of yarns is done through needle-like healds and then passed through the reed (a comb like structure to beat the weft in place at the time of weaving). Healding is done early in the morning, in bright light. It’s a tedious process and needs a lot of precision. Step 5. Weaving - Fabric is woven using the fly shuttle in traditional pit looms. Weaving a jamdani is a matter of skill and patience...and when it is done using fine yarn, it requires even more endurance from the weaver. The yarn has a tendency to break if too much strength is applied or entangle if the tension is not just right...hence weaving is slow and time consuming. Step 6. Finishing - After weaving, the ends in each piece are knotted and fringe finished. Then the piece is washed to remove all traces of gum/starch...and finally ironed.